Review: Café Hollander

by Kevin Mundt

Cafe Hollander is not easy to categorize. The atmosphere is modern yet has that cozy aged feel. It looks fancy yet has a casual quality to it. The menu is a mix of European, American and Asian influences.

You can go there early in the morning for an espresso (you can take it to go) and a baguette with jam or stop in at lunchtime for a bowl of soup made fresh daily, and a curry chicken sandwich. Visit at night for an appetizer of Belgian burger sliders and a main course of Maple Grilled Salmon while drinking a glass of wine or a selection of their Belgian beers. If you are too busy during the week to stop by Café Hollander, try the extensive brunch served Saturdays and Sundays from 8 am to 3 pm.

This variety is not by chance. It is an attempt to emulate the cafés of Europe where people gather day or night – sometimes multiple times in one day – to satisfy a multitude of cravings.

Café Hollander, at the location formerly occupied by Gil’s Café, is another creation from the Diablos Rojos Restaurants group, also known for Trocadero, Balzac, and the Hi Hat lounge/garage.

While the food and drinks are a little on the expensive side, the quality and presentation will not disappoint.

Address: 2608 N. Downer Ave.
Phone: 414-963-6366
Hours: Open daily at 7am. Brunch
Saturday & Sunday 8am-3pm.

Riverwest Currents online edition – March, 2007